I had reserved the morning in Killarney to do further planning as my westward travel across the main body of Ireland would be completed after another 7 miles. The rest of my journey would be on the Dingle Peninsula to its end at Dunmore Head, the westernmost place on the Irish mainland.
The journey so far had been full of variety and travelling along the Blackwater Valley and I often felt a deep sense of peace as I passed field after green field with mostly Friesian cows contentedly feeding. Perhaps this was partly because this pastoral scenery was so similar to that in Leicestershire where I had spent my childhood. I could image myself still searching the hedgerows, playing in the streams, always exploring the next field to find what might be hidden there.
County Kerry purported to be the most scenic part of Ireland and when my satnav had guided me through the suburbs of Killarney it had finally deposited me on the main road near the B & B. This it described as the Ring of Kerry and my new adventures were starting as I followed the Ring all round Dingle Peninsular.
When planning the trip to Ireland, l had the experience of crossing Wales to help. My intention in Wales had been to give me as much flexibility as to where I would stay overnight and so I would book for only a night or so in advance. However, it quickly became clear that, even without the influence of Ed Sheeran, this would not work. If, and this was one of the main pleasures of the trip, I stopped too long looking at something interesting on the way I would have little spare time in the evening after a meal to book the next lodging. I could perhaps have bought some rations in shops on the way and forgone the evening meal but part of the journey’s enjoyment was visiting new places and having local things to eat and, when going across Ireland, perhaps finding some “crac”!
One of the best ways of discovering the availability of B & Bs was to use Google maps. Find the town on the map, insert “B & B” in the search box and the date you wanted to stay, and it would put up available accommodation and the price for that night. You could vary it to include hostels and hotels. In practice, there were other places available, simple B & Bs that were not registered with the local Tourist Board, for instance, but I found that if you phoned a B & B that was full, they would often know of others nearby.
A preliminary search before I left home, made it clear that I had to start from the end, not the beginning. Looking at the Google satellite map it was clear that it was not possible to cycle to the furthest place west, nor did it show a safe place to leave a bike. It was going to be necessary to stay somewhere as near as possible and search for it on foot as I had had to do in Wales. There was little accommodation nearby, the nearest being De Mordha B & B at a small village called Dunquin. It had a 5 star rating with Trip Advisor and many other enthusiastic comments in other sources. Walkers following the Coast Path reported how very welcoming and helpful Angela, the proprietor, and her husband were which included providing a packed lunch. As a result, they were usually full at this time of the year and it was very necessary to book well in advance. They were the only place I met which required a small deposit which had to be sent by PayPal. They clearly did not want to have people booking unless they were serious and it became clear when I got there that they were not doing this for financial reasons but so they could accept the many serious walkers, walking the Coast Path, who needed to plan in advance where they would sleep in this remote area.
I was thus in the unusual position of having to book my furthest place first. I had to decide which day I would arrive, calculate how long it would take me to get there, book and then reserve seats on the trains and ferry. I needed also to book the first night at Rosslaire where I got off the ferry. It was difficult to predict with certainty how long it would take me to get to Dunquin so I had to make my best guess but to add in a spare day as a precaution.
On investigation, I found there was another problem on the route between Fermoy and
Killarney. Because of the lack of accommodation between them, Tom Cooper, the author of Cycle Touring in Ireland, had recommended doing the 64 miles (which he described as “Undulating – surprisingly tiring”) in one day. This I did not fancy, but eventually found the B & B at Millstreet. The final problem was Dingle, a tourist hotspot, where there was plenty of accommodation but very expensive. This I would have to put off until I was more certain I would arrive. I had allocated a Rest Day at Killarney when I would make my plans for the Dingle Peninsular, having safely accomplished all my long rides.
One of my concerns was that some unexpected problem would occur which could throw everything out as these complications are made more difficult to resolve when you are abroad by yourself. Fortunately, I had a lifeline. My son, Ian, and I belong to a small informal group of walkers which includes a lovely lady by the name of Ita. Ita was brought up on a farm in Ireland and we had had lots of chats about farming and our respective countrysides. Ita gave me the telephone number of her motorcyclist brother, John, in Ireland who would always be willing to help me out so I telephoned him before I left. As well as giving me lots of good advice, he told me that if I was in
any sort of trouble to ring him straight away and wherever he was he would come straight over. That was a huge comfort! I hoped I would not need to bother him.